This is my first attempt at a blog with some actual content so please be patient with me.
BACKGROUND
I met my cycling buddy, Bruce, four years ago on a Rick Steves tour in Europe. We quickly figured out that we had three things in common: we're old (a recurring theme of this blog), we like to cycle, and, lastly, our wives like to shop.
At the time, Bruce lived down in Houston and when he visited us a few months later, I took him up Diablo. I was pretty impressed when he did it from SG in 1:15, especially considering his climbing training consisted of the freeway overpasses in the Big H. That's when I figured out that he's a pretty strong rider or at least a lot stronger than moi.
He then retired and moved to the Olympic Peninsula in Washington. Last year, I visited him and we did Hurricane Ridge (5000' in 18 miles). That was enough to convince us that climbing the TDF climbs was probably doable and that we better do it now 'cuz the clock is ticking (Bruce is 65 and I'm 62 (another age reference, which is my favorite excuse for all of my bike failures)).
PLANNING
Naturally, our first thoughts were on how to get our own bikes over there. The problem was that we were planning to be normal tourists for a couple of weeks after the cycling and we didn't want to have to deal with hauling them around. Shipping our bikes was prohibitively expensive (~$700 per bike one way) and then we'd have to deal with transporting the bikes to each ride. Bringing our bikes with us on the plane wouldn't cost as much, but then we'd have to ship them back at $700 a pop, plus there would be the hassle of getting someone to box them up.
Fortunately, there are several bike shops in the town at the foot of Alpe d'Huez (Bourg d'Oisans), which rent bikes. We ended renting Giant Defy Advanced with 105 triples for 40 euros (~52$) per day per bike. Not cheap, but very convenient. I highly recommend going this route if you ever think about doing this. Make sure you make reservations, however.
TIMING
Because of work constraints, we did the trip in early May. This is an absolutely wonderful time to visit France. No crowds and the weather is wonderful (70's and 80's) in the south and low 60's in Paris. The only drawback was that not all of the climbs are open. We had wanted to do Col du Telegraph and Col du Galibier, but they were still snowbound. Our major goal, Alpe d'Huez, wasn't a problem since it leads up to a ski resort and the road is open year around. Late May is probably the ideal time to go if the TDF climbs in the Alps are your primary focus.
NEAR CATASTROPHE
Despite a four hour layover in Denver, United couldn't manage to transfer my suitcase to Lufthansa. My wife's made it, but not mine. As my shoes, pedals and kit were in the suitcase, this caused more than major consternation when we arrived in Lyon. We arrived on a Tuesday and we were planning to ride on Thursday. Fortunately, they were able to track it down and deliver it to our hotel in Lyon late Wednesday night. Major relief. Lesson learned - Carry shoes and pedals in carry-on (you can buy everything else if needed).
ALPE D'HUEZ
On Thursday, we drove from Lyon to Bourg d'Oisans, intending to ride Alpe d'Huez that afternoon and that's how it worked out! The weather was perfect (low 60's); I didn't need arm or knee warmers, but I brought them along anyway for the descent.
Here's Bruce and I setting out from the hotel.
Alpe d'Huez is only 8.7 miles, but climbs 3600 feet with 21 switchbacks. The bottom is the hardest part and averages 11-12% for two miles. The 12-25 cassette was barely adequate (clear indicator of my patheticism). The next four miles were mostly around 8% and the top only 5%. At each switchback are signs with the name of a rider who won a TdF stage at AdH. They served as a good distraction from the pain. Overall, I achieved my modest goal, which was to finish without stopping.
Near the top, it's easy to get lost winding through the ski resort because there aren't any signs pointing you in the right direction. I took a wrong turn once, but didn't lose much time. The only tip I have is to go under the roadway and to keep heading up the hill
The pics shown below are in the order that I took them. I was so intent on making it to the top without stopping that the first pic is of us at the finish line at the Alpe d'Huez ski resort. The rest of the pics were taken as we rode back down the hill.
Here's a view of the last of the switchbacks, right below the ski resort.
Lower switchbacks
Side note - we ended up talking to a Dutch cyclist the next day and he mentioned that there's a fund-raising ride up Alpe d'Huez in June. The goal is to ride up it six times in one day. Not everyone can do it, but he did. They raise over 20 million euros.
COL D'ORNAN/LES DUEX ALPES
The guy at the bike shop then recommended that we do Col d'Ornan since it's "easy" and it's right outside of town on the other side of the valley, and Les Duex Alpes.
Col d'Ornan is about 6.5 miles and 2000 feet of climbing. From a scenery standpoint, you can't beat it. You basically go up this valley, where you're surrounding by snow covered mountains on both sides. The descent was outstanding - good steepness, wide turns, no traffic. I really felt what it must be like in the Tour, only I was going 20 mph slower.
Here's me at the top. Please excuse the totally mis-matching and rumpled look. I'm really ashamed; I'm usually quite the fashion plate.
Anyway, we attempted Les Duex Alpes, but my legs couldn't handle anymore 8% grades so we bailed after a mile. The descent down Le Moutet was awesome, especially since the cars couldn't keep up with us. I washed my shorts that night.
MONT VENTOUX (SUD)
We had considered Ventoux a long time ago, but actually doing it was a spur of the moment thing. We had intended to ride around the Bourg d'Oisans area for four days, but since most of the major cols were still closed, we cut it short by two days. Instead, we booked a hotel in Gordes and saw the Pont du Gard, Avignon and Rousillan. Our training diet consisted of wine, ice cream and croissants. Carbs are good, right?
We had previously scouted the Ventoux option and knew of a bike shop in Bedoin, which rented bikes. The guy has a whole small warehouse of bikes for rent, and he'll deliver them to your hotel. We ended up with Madone triples with 12-28 gearing. I was in heaven.
Ventoux is quite a bit harder than Alpe d'Huez. The steep parts are just as steep and just as long. The average steepness for the whole climb is about the same and it's 50% longer (5145 feet in 13 miles). Plus, on normal days, it's very cold and windy on top. If you're not familiar with the mountain, the last three miles are through this rocky, treeless moonscape, so wind would be a huge factor if it's blowing hard. The weather didn't affect us, however; since it was in the lower sixties down at the bottom and sunny and no wind at the top. Just ideal.
Again, the goal was to avoid the Walk of Shame and that was achieved. I did it in 2:20 and Bruce did it in 1:56. A few people were walking their bikes up the hill, but most were riding and passing moi. That was OK since I always have the age excuse. (You must be sick of hearing about this by now.)
BTW, I've always suspected that the Strava climbing estimates are too high. The official ascent from Bedoin is 5182 feet and my Garmin showed 5145'. Strava estimated 5441'.
This is what you see when you first enter the town of Bedoin. Things to note from this picture. They know how to market. The rocks at the base of the statue are basically what you're riding through at the top. You can see the Ventoux tower in the background. We rode up it from the right or the south route.
After conquering, here's a pic of Bruce and I celebrating. He in his new Alpe d'Huez jersey and me in my new Ventoux jersey. Bruce bought a Ventoux jersey a few years ago after driving to the top. He wore it once, but quickly got tired of explaining that he didn't ride to the top. Now he can drag it out of the drawer.
BORDEAUX COUNTRYSIDE
A few days later we were in Sarlat, about 30 miles east of Bordeaux. A lot of bike tours in this area since it's pretty, it's flat, and there are a lot of vineyards. We could have rented some touring bikes, but Bruce said no (he's your typical Campy snob), so we ended up with a couple of semi-retro road bikes. He ended up with a 54 (he's 6'2") with Sachs (sp?) components. Mine was a little more up-to-date Orbea, but with a standard double and 11-23 gearing. (Richard would be proud of me.) I ended up with a KOM on a segment that Strava must have auto-created. I love it when it does that.
Oddly, it didn't feel different riding sans helmet.
That's all I've got, cycling-wise. We spent a few more days in the Bordeaux area and then took a train up to Paris.
If you've gotten this far, you've definitely HTFUed and I give you permission to take some days off of the trainer.
Cliff
